Pine Trees in the Snow (Right Screen) by Maruyama Okyo National Treasure. Mitsui Memorial Museum (Exhibited from Oct. 8 to Nov. 13)

The famed Mitsui Family of Japan reopened their historic three-century collection of art in the new Mitsui Memorial Museum in October. Newly located in the heart of Nihonbashi, long a Mitsui family center of business, a visit to the museum offers not only an engaging cultural view of some of Japan and Asia's finest examples of traditional and ancient art but also a fun architectural time trip.

On your way towards the museum, look across the famed Nihonbashi bridge which has been the subject of so much history highlighted in many beautiful old woodblock prints from the Edo Period (1603-1868). Right near the bridge will be the Mitsukoshi Department Store, easy to spot with its elegantly preserved building and two grand cast iron lions at the front entrance. Mitsukoshi Ltd. is one of the largest department store company in Japan and the original enterprise that became the foundation for the Mitsui family fortune. Across the street is a fun historic reconstruction of the original Edo Period Mitsui family kimono shop called Mitsui Echigoya, open until March 2006. The Mitsui family crest is imprinted in white on the traditional blue cloth signage decorating the exterior of the structure. Inside you can find booths selling favorite foods of the Edo Period, souvenir shops and information about the old and new Nihonbashi. Performances such as traditional Japanese storytelling and comic monologues are held on the weekends in the entertainment hall.

The actual entrance to the Mitsui Memorial Museum is situated on the ground floor of the brand new sleek Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower. This impressive glass skyscraper houses the newly opened Mandarin Oriental Hotel. The facade of this structure cleverly mimics and blends with the Greek-Romanesque-style Mitsui Main Building next door which you then enter for a ride up the elevator to the Museum on the 7th Floor. The Mitsui Main Building has been skillfully preserved in its original 1929 condition and designated as an Important Cultural Property by the Japanese government. Your brief steps between these two Western-style structures built in contrasting old and modern eras of Japan is an intriguing introduction to both the Museum and the Mitsui dynasty as a whole.

Mitsui Main Building Important Cultural Property

Like the Rothschilds of Europe and the Vanderbilts of the United States, the Mitsui's have been one of the most powerful and influential families in Japan. The story of the family's rise to power is a fascinating one, closely intertwined with some of the most important events in the history of Japan dating largely from the Edo Period (1603-1868). The founder of the House of Mitsui was Takatoshi Mitsui (1622-1694) who first established his Edo (now Tokyo) dry-goods stores in 1673. Financially and politically savvy, he then opened money-lending and exchange shops eventually establishing the family as the official chartered merchants of the Tokugawa shogunate which ruled during that time. Through this relationship, the Mitsui's grew to become the wealthiest merchant house of the Edo Period. In the 1860's however when the influence of the shogun was fading, the Mitsui's switched allegiance to the new Meiji government which was establishing itself as the new ruling power in Japan. With this, the Mitsui's were able to establish continued favor under the government after 1868. Eventually, three principal subsidiaries were established: Mitsui Banking, Mitsui Trading, and Mitsui Mining. By 1909, Mitsui had become a full-fledged zaibatsu, a huge combine of over 150 companies in the financial, industrial and commercial industries that continued to grow during the years leading up to World War II. After the war between 1946 and 1950, with newly established laws, Mitsui was broken up through the zaibatsu dissolution. After 1950 the now-independent Mitsui companies established themselves in an enterprise grouping, called a keiretsu. The holding company in this Mitsui keiretsu has been replaced by two loosely organized presidents' clubs, whose members include the eleven Mitsui family "heads" who establish policy. Today, Mitsui continues its tradition of ownership and influence in trade, banking, construction, shipping, insurance, mining, oil and gas, chemicals, sugar and real estate development among others.

The Mitsui Memorial Museum's collection contains approximately 3,700 objects, donated largely by three of the eleven Mitsui family heads - Kitake Mitsui, Shinmachike Mitsui and Muromachike Mitsui. These objects are primarily tea ceremony utensils, Japanese paintings, calligraphy, Noh masks, Noh costumes and household furnishings. Hina Festival (Girls' Day) dolls and a magnificent collection of swords and sword equipment were donated by families related to the Mitsui's. Among these objects are historically significant, rare and valuable works designated by the Japanese government as National Treasures (6), Important Cultural Properties (20) and Important Art Objects (44). This special exhibition contains about 120 of the collection's masterpieces.

In addition, the Museum has a fabulous postage stamp collection containing approximately 130,000 items from around the world, donated by the Minamike Mitsui family and Sakaya Tadashi, former president of Daicel Chemical Industries Ltd. For philately enthusiasts, this is a real treat and an unusual find in Japan among museums.

Tea Ceremony Room Joan Reconstructed in the exhibition room, Mitsui Memorial Museum

Enter into the Museum with its 1920's corporate boardroom-like feel and your eye will quickly focus on the ceramic tea ware brightly displayed in protective glass cases. Around the corner is a replica of a National Treasure-designated Joan tea ceremony room, closely connected with the Mitsui family and originally built in 1618. In form with the simplicity and quiet humility required within a ceremony room are interesting old calendars papered along lower parts of the walls.

As you continue to stroll, a magnificent 3-meter long folding screen titled Pine Trees in the Snow will then quickly appear before you. A National Treasure, it was painted by Maruyama Okyo (1733-1795), one of the most important painters of the Edo Period and a great influence among later generations of painters. He was a favorite of the Mitsui family. The screen may look elaborate but the painting is actually only made up of white paper, shades of sumi (Indian ink) and gold-leaf used in the background. It is an excellent example of sumi technique blended with the traditional ornate gold-leaf decorative style. The illusion of real trees has actually been created without clearly defined lines. The open area in the center between the two pine trees gives one the sense of expanding space, a concept called yohaku (empty space) often used in traditional Japanese paintings as an element of balance in the composition.

Noh Mask Magojiro (15-16c) Important Cultural Property Mitsui Memorial Museum (Exhibited from Oct. 8 to Nov. 13)

The calligraphic works displayed in an adjoining room are particularly important for the work titled Diary Describing Gotoba Joukou's Journey to Kumano (1201-Kamakura Period) by Fujiwara no Teika and the ancient Chinese rubbings called the "Teihyokaku Collection" donated by Takakata Mitsui, the ninth head of the Shinmachike Mitsui family. These rubbings are renowned worldwide.

Among the 54 Noh masks donated by the Kitake Mitsui family the mask titled Magojiro is particularly mesmerizing. Named after the famous Muromachi Period (1338-1573) actor named Magojiro, legend has it that the mask was modeled after his wife who died at a young age. Although strangely ghost-like, the mask also reflects both the nobleness and sensuality of the young woman's face.

With its convenient location and contrasting new and old features, the Mitsui Memorial Museum is an enjoyable and worthwhile visit.

The Museum's next exhibition will be titled: "Nihonbashi"
January 7 (Sat) -- February 12 (Sun), 2006
Views of Nihonbashi bridge during the Edo Period in woodblock prints and a magnificent 12-meter picture scroll all borrowed from collections throughout the world.